

Colorbond fencing in Toongabbie, planned around creek side drainage, sloping older yards and boundaries that have been patched for years.
Toongabbie was largely built out in the 1960s and 1970s and the land is anything but flat. Blocks fall toward Toongabbie Creek and the drainage lines that feed it, and the lower yards can take a lot of water in a heavy summer storm. That has a direct bearing on how a fence should be built here.
A solid steel fence across a natural drainage path acts like a dam, which is the fastest way to end up with a flooded neighbour and a fence pushed out of line. On the low side of a Toongabbie block we keep the base detail open enough for water to pass, or use a plinth with deliberate gaps rather than sealing the run tight to the ground. On the higher parts of the suburb the issues are the usual ones, old rotted paling and a steady fall that needs the panels stepped.
We look at where the water goes before we decide the base detail, then put the whole approach into a fixed written quote. Call 0492 879 796 to book a free measure.
Fencing on the low Toongabbie blocks with a base that lets stormwater keep moving.
Panels stepped evenly where a Toongabbie block falls steadily toward the creek line.
Removing rotted 1970s hardwood fencing and rebuilding the run in steel.
Plinths used on the higher sections and left open where water needs a path.
Side gates sized for a mower or bin, plus double gates for trailer access.
Old concrete plugs dug out properly so new posts land where they should.
It can if it is built without thought for drainage. A solid sheet run across the natural flow path on a low lying Toongabbie block will hold water back, which floods someone and eventually pushes the fence over. On those boundaries we keep the base detail open enough for water to pass, or use a plinth with deliberate gaps. Where a run crosses a defined overland flow path we discuss it with you before quoting.
Selectively. A plinth is excellent for closing base gaps and stopping mulch washing through, and on the higher parts of a Toongabbie block we use one as a matter of course. On the low corner where stormwater collects, sealing the base tight is the wrong move. It is common for us to plinth two thirds of a run and leave the lowest section open.
Serve a fencing notice. That is the written proposal required under the NSW Dividing Fences Act 1991 setting out the fence you want built, who will build it and the quoted cost. The neighbour then has thirty days to agree or put an alternative. For a standard dividing fence the cost is normally shared equally. If you want extra height or a slat extension purely for your own benefit, expect to pay that part yourself.
Most side and rear boundaries here go in at 1.8m, with 2.1m used where a neighbouring house sits higher up the slope and looks into the yard. Woodland Grey and Basalt are the most popular colours because they recede behind established gardens, Monument suits homes that have been rendered and re-roofed, and Jasper works with the original brown brick.
Yes. On Toongabbie blocks the old fence is usually 1970s hardwood paling with posts set in big concrete plugs, often with a shed or a path built against it. We break the footings out rather than cutting posts at ground level, load everything and take it away. Whether you spell it colourbond or Colorbond, removal and disposal is included in the written quote.
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